Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02

Four years after the launch of the [Re]Master collection, the second iteration has been waiting in the wings for a long time. In 2019, Audemars Piguet released the Code 11.59 collection, which was positioned as an alternative to Royal Oak (after the discontinuation of the Jules Audemars and Millenary lines in previous years). A year later, the [RE]Master01 appeared, a new chronograph inspired by a 1940’s watch produced by Audemars Piguet in a limited edition of 500 copies. With the new release, it seemed that AP would build on its legacy in a way that would show that the brand is something that vintage watch collectors already know, and not just “The Royal Oak Company.” The “collection”, as it stands, wasn’t even listed on the brand’s “collections” landing page. Four years later, a new [RE]Master has appeared, and it is certainly very different from the first one.

The new watch is made of AP sand gold in a 41 x 9.7 mm case with a water resistance of 30 m. The glass follows the shape of the case, which gives a slight distortion when viewed from an angle. Audemars Piguet reinterprets the unconventional asymmetrical design of 1961 as part of its bold [Re]Master collection.

Audemars Piguet has released its first [Re]Master model, recreating the magnificent chronograph of the 1940s. In the second chapter of this historical collection, the brand rethinks one of its most expressive designs from the 1960s. Inspired by the brutalist style, the Reference 5159BA stands out for its asymmetrical yellow gold body and eccentric shape. As for the first [Re]Master, the idea is not to present a simple copy of the previous model, but to rethink it from a modern perspective.

Apart from the design conventions dictated by circular wristwatches, Audemars Piguet has a long, rich heritage of shaped watches. The brand has always been distinguished by its unique ability to break norms or rules. The manufactory’s creations take on a variety of forms, starting with the Royal Oak, a transgressive watch that has become a cultural icon.

Wristwatches are traditionally symmetrical for obvious rational and functional reasons. The hands rotate in a circle, and the standard idea of what a watch should look like is a circle. The circle is a direct consequence of the mechanics used to display time, and is the most versatile shape in many ways. The first wristwatches were basically modified pocket watches that were attached to the wrist. However, the development of a watch with a unique shape allowed watchmakers to express their creativity and technical skills. The move away from the ubiquitous round body has given rise to more expressive designs. After experimenting with all kinds of shapes, the asymmetry remained.

After the Second World War, there was a vivid creative approach in the production of watches with shapes. It was also the golden age of the Audemars Piguet asymmetrical watch, with over 30 asymmetrical models created between 1959 and 1963, most of which were produced in fewer than ten copies. Among them is the 1961 reference 5159BA, a yellow gold model in the brutalist style, produced in only seven copies.

The most striking evolution of the [Re]Master02 compared to the 1960s model is the adaptation of the body design and dimensions. The overall look is immediately recognizable, it has been reinterpreted with a modern look using modern technology. First of all, the proportions were increased from 27.5 mm to 41 mm wide. The design stands out for its straight, brutal lines and sharp angles, drawing an unconventional case geometry and faceted crystal.

Despite the unconventional design, the asymmetry of [Re]Master02 does not lead to visual imbalance. Instead, it creates a dynamic tension that attracts the eye, making the watch an ever-changing sight. The sharp corners offer an exciting play of light and reflections. Audemars Piguet emphasizes the complexity involved in manufacturing the crystal, in particular to achieve perfect polishing on its concave side, while ensuring perfect transparency and water resistance of the case.

The material is also new. Audemars Piguet applies its exclusive sand gold, an 18 carat gold alloy with an unprecedented hue, first introduced at the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked earlier this year. The finish has also been rethought. The case is completely satin-finished, except for the polished mirrored contour of the dial. They further emphasize the rough, angular character of the case.

The dial is also quite impressive, with an exciting play of light. This is the result of a complex design that requires the painstaking work of experienced craftsmen. The modernist mosaic consists of a base plate processed to create twelve compartments in which dark blue inserts are embedded. Their deep blue color, called “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” (used in Royal Oak Jumbo), is achieved through a PVD process, while the linear matte finish creates striking reflections. The thin hands are made of 18k sand gold. A nice detail: neat cutouts on the case at 12, 6 and 9 o’clock positions.

Unlike the original watch, the Audemars Piguet [Re]Master02 has a sapphire back cover, revealing a movement with a magnificent pedigree. The 7129 automatic calibre is based on a newly created mechanism used in the latest generation of the Royal Oak Jumbo, the 7121 Calibre. Its date mechanism has been removed, making the mechanism even thinner at just 2.8mm (compared to 3.2mm for the 7121).

The balance wheel with variable inertia, located under the transverse bridge, oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 half-vibrations per hour. The movement boasts a 52-hour power reserve on one reel. As you would expect, it is beautifully finished with finishes such as Geneva stripes, spiral finish, solar sanding, circular grain and polished corners. In accordance with the body, the rotor is openwork with asymmetrical cutouts, it is made of 22-carat gold, covered with sand gold.

The unusual and shocking Audemars Piguet [Re]Master02 15240SG watch is a polarizing design that some will like and others will not like. In any case, they will attract attention on the wrist. The watch is equipped with a blue alligator leather strap with a matte finish and an 18-carat sand gold buckle and will be released in a limited edition of 250 copies. Their price is $47,200.

Technical specifications of Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02

made of alligator leather in contrasting shades of blue with a matte finish, the buckle is made of 18K sand gold.