Bvlgari Gerald Genta Arena Bi-Retrograde Anthracite

Gerald Genta is much more than his fame as a Royal Oak designer. This man also founded his own watch brand, which was acquired by Bvlgari in 2000 and is one of the foundations of today’s impressive Octo Finissimo collection.

Last year, the name Gerald Genta appeared again, printed on the dial of the model dedicated to the 50th anniversary. In 2020, Bvlgari continues to revive the name and introduces a new, more modern take on the signature dual retrograde dial with the new Gerald Genta Arena Bi-Retrograde Anthracite.

Gerald Genta is known for his projects such as Royal Oak or Nautilus. But he was also the founder of the watch brand of the same name and created some of the most striking and daring watches of high watchmaking of his time, including several models with great complexity.

Another element that consolidated the fame of his brand was the unique retrograde and bi-retrograde mechanisms. In 1996, Gerald Genta was the first to combine jumping clocks and retrograde minutes in his wristwatch. The architecture of the clock, known as the Arena, was inspired by the structure of the ancient “arenas”.

Bvlgari acquired the Gerald Genta brand in 2000, along with its subsidiary Daniel Roth of The Hour Glass. In 2010, the two companies ceased to exist as separate brands. It also allowed Bvlgari to bring together teams, archives and knowledge under the Bvlgari umbrella, and they all participated in the creation of many record-breaking ultrathin watches.

Bvlgari is now once again paying attention to Gerald Genta’s legacy by launching new models with the Gerald Genta logo, breathing new life into the brand’s distinctive design codes and signature mechanisms. It started last year with the platinum Arena Bi-Retrograde. This year, the brand welcomes a more modern, but also more affordable version of Anthracite.

There can be no doubt about the origin. This new Gerald Genta Arena Bi-Retrograde Anthracite watch perfectly matches the old GG watches, whether it’s design, boldness and, of course, the unusual but iconic dial. However, Bvlgari has worked on this model to make the watch more modern. While last year’s platinum version was relatively subtle and refined with a monochrome blue dial, this 2020 edition is more sporty and colorful.

A sign of evolution: the case now has a diameter of 43 mm with a thickness of 12 mm. It is made of grey brushed titanium. Like its predecessors from the 1990s, it features a sleek rounded bezel, straight ears, and a flat-edged profile. The crown is partially protected by extended protective protrusions, the water resistance of the case is 100 meters.

The main evolution of this Gerald Genta Arena Bi-Retrograde 2020 model is the dial. The platinum edition played on elegant tones and shapes; this titanium version is much bolder and sportier. The dial, divided into clear sectors, combines dark gray (for the background) with yellow (for the hands and numbers on the scale). The curve of the scale is accentuated by matte metal rings.

The attractive and unique Bi-Retrograde dial is the hallmark of this watch and a hallmark of Gerald Genta’s creations. It combines a bouncing clock in the window at 12 o’clock and minutes on a 210-degree arc. The date is also retrograde (with a 180-degree rotation) and fills the empty space at the 6 o’clock mark.

Not everyone understands that the jumping clock is a rare, complex and demanding mechanism. The hours and minutes should jump and go back exactly one hour. The mechanism needs to accumulate power before releasing it immediately in one quick and precise movement.

Bvlgari uses its classic manufactured automatic movement, the BVL 300 base, a 26.2 mm self-winding movement with a frequency of 4 Hz and a power reserve of 42 hours. There is an internal module on top that controls the jump and retrograde indication. The mechanism is decorated in a classic style and is equipped with a rotor with the GG logo.

Gerald Genta Arena Bi-Retrograde Anthracite Dial comes with a matte black alligator leather strap with a folding titanium clasp. The retail price is 15,000 euros.

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