The Breguet single-shooter, released as part of the brand’s 250th anniversary, received the Golden Arrow. Anton Sukhanov with his Easter tubillon became the “Discovery of the Year”.
On Thursday, November 13, the Geneva Grand Prix of Watchmaking was held in Geneva for the 25th time. This year, the award, which is often referred to as the one-hour Oscar, has changed its venue. The guests and future Grand Prix winners watched what was happening at the BFM Cultural Center (Batiment des Forces Motrices), located on the Rhone embankment.

The event was not without minor excesses. During the presentation of the award in the “Women’s watches with complications” category, Chopard co-president Caroline Scheufele went out to receive the statuette ahead of time. But the main incident happened with the winning brand: the name of Breguet CEO Gregory Kiessling (Breguet is this year’s winner) was confused with the name of IWC CEO Christoph Grainger-Herr, who won the Golden Arrow last year. See the list of all GPHG 2025 laureates below.
Golden Arrow: Breguet Classique Souscription 2025

Only one hand shows the time on the model’s enameled dial. The 40 x 10.8 mm rose gold case has a manual winding movement and a 96-hour power reserve. The model’s name refers to a convenient practice used by Abraham-Louis Breguet. After receiving the order for the watch, he took a part of the payment for it and only after that he started making it. Read more about the watch in review.
Men’s watch: Urban Jurgensen UJ-2: Double wheel natural escapement

The main feature of the model is a natural descent with a double wheel. The mechanism is packaged in a 39 x 10.9 mm red gold case. The highlights of the watch’s design are the power reserve indicator, which indicates the remaining energy reserve in the movement in quarters, and the hand–made guilloche pattern, which clearly zones the dial.
Men’s watch with complications: BOVET 1822 Récital 30

A clock timer that solves the problem of time indication, taking into account the fact that only a part of the countries in the world are switching to daylight saving time. Moreover, the watch also takes into account different transition dates in Europe and the USA. All thanks to the roller system, which was first used in the Recital 28 Prowess 1 model, which was awarded as the best watch of 2024 in the Exceptional Mechanics category.
Women’s watch: Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal

This model attracts with its unusual carnelian dial. The cheerful color of the stone is supported by a yellow gold case and 137 fiery opals encrusted in a massive rounded bezel. Inside the case there is a self-winding movement, assembled on the basis of a caliber from the Zenith Elite series.
Women’s watches with complications: Chopard Imperiale Four Seasons

A jewelry model with a white gold case and a time-of-year indicator. A disk with a rotation cycle of 1 year is integrated into the movement of the watch. It is decorated with mother-of-pearl mosaics, different fragments of which correspond to different pores of the year and, as the disk rotates, demonstrate a smooth transition from one season to another. The upper part of the dial is an elegant lace of white gold, which is folded into a lotus flower.
Time Only: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold

This watch has received a characteristic of the early works Daniel Roth’s case is shaped like a double ellipse and has rather elegant dimensions of 35.5 x 38.6 x 7.7 mm. If the case is made of rose gold, then the dial here is bicolor (white gold + rose gold). The dial is hand-decorated with a linear guilloche pattern. Read more about the watch in review.
Tourbillon: Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon

The world’s thinnest tourbillon watch. The immortal invention of Abraham-Louis Breguet is placed in a case, the thickness of which does not exceed 1.85 mm. The case and bracelet of the model are made of sandblasted titanium. Instead of a dial, there are 2 brass counters with brass hands. The platinum into which the tourbillon is integrated (it is also the back cover of the watch) is made of tungsten carbide.
Iconic watch: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

A beautiful perpetual calendar with the ability to customize all calendar functions using a single crown. In addition to the purely technical convenience, the watch is also good in terms of aesthetics. The case (41 mm) and the bracelet of the model are made of Sand Gold alloy, the calm shade of which supports the dial with the Grande Tapisserie pattern.
Sports watches: Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF

This is the lightest watch from the Alpine Eagle collection. The case is 41 mm in diameter, the bezel and the crown of the watch are made of glassblasted ceramized titanium, and the strap is made of rubber, which gives maximum lightness. The mechanism of the model was facilitated by the same ceramized titanium – platinum and bridges are made of it. Another feature of the mechanism is the use of monocrystalline silicon parts and a high frequency of balance fluctuations (8 Hz).
Chronograph: Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Yellow Gold

One-button chronograph with a telemetry and pronounced vintage vibe. The case of the 37 x 9.25 mm model is made of yellow gold. A vintage leather strap is matched to the nickel dial with a clear touch of retro. Inside the case there is a hand-wound manufacturing caliber with a 42–hour power reserve, the parameters of which are also very elegant – 24 x 4.20 mm.
Jewelry Watches: Dior Montres La D de Dior Buisson Couture

Aces as the embodiment of a luxurious blooming garden. This piece of jewelry is made of diamonds, pink sapphires of different shades and tsavorites of different types of cut (diamond, pear-shaped, oval and “marquise”). It took more than 1,000 stones to finish the dial alone. The watch case is 38 mm in diameter and is made of rose gold. There is a quartz movement inside.
Watch with artistic finish: Voutilainen 28GML Souyou

This is the 12th Kari Voutilainen Award for the entire existence of the watch Oscar. The multi–colored canvas on the dial of this model is the result of using a whole series of Japanese decorative techniques. These are urushi lacquer, and a combination of different gold powder in the kinpun technique, and kirigane gold leaf applique and fragments of Turbo marmoratus seashells in combination with New Zealand abalone.
Exceptional mechanics: Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante

A model with an unusual mechanism based on the principles of nanomechanics. The second hand in the watch makes a complete revolution on the dial in 1 second, and this revolution is divided into 6 “steps” or fragments. Each such revolution consumes only 16 nanojoules of energy instead of the usual 30. The arrows control the flights directly from the balance fluctuations. Instead of classic wheels, low-inertia wheels are used in the mechanism to transfer energy.
Malaya strelka: M.A.D. Editions M.A.D.2 Green

A watch that pays homage to the era of the 1960s. The cushion body of this model is only 6 mm thick. It is made of steel, which mimics gold with a PVD coating. A quartz movement is installed under the tiger’s eye dial.
Mechanical Table Clock: Albatross L’Epée 1839 X MB&F

This 17-kilogram miracle combines a striking clock and an automatic airship with 16 pairs of blades. The built-in mechanical computer will allow the owner to choose one of several operating modes: full mode (animation + combat), silence mode, animation in silence mode, or only the combat function.
The mechanism is wound up using blades: those in front start the clock mechanism (clockwise) and the clock itself (counterclockwise). The blades in the back of the albatross start the animation mechanism.
Opening of the year: Anton Sukhanov and St. Petersburg Easter Egg Tourbillon Clock

A tourbillon watch made in the form of an Easter egg. The base of the egg is made of mirror–polished steel, the egg itself is made of hand-guilloched silver, which is decorated with translucent enamel, and the top is a convex sapphire crystal. Below it, a mechanical performance unfolds with a tourbillon that rotates at a speed of 1 revolution every 24 seconds. A 24-hour wall timer scale is located around the perimeter of the top.
Audacity Prize: Fam Al Hut MARK 1 Möbius

A two-axis tourbillon packaged in a non-standard ellipse-shaped case. The case has a compact format of 24.3 x 42.2 x 12.9 mm. It is made of steel, although, according to rumors, this applies only to the prototype. Production models will be offered in an amorphous zirconium case, which belongs to the class of metallic glasses. The sapphire crystal of the dial increases the thickness of the case to 17.4 mm, which gives the tourbillon enough space to rotate along the vertical axis.
In addition to the tourbillon, the watch’s movement supports a retrograde minute display and a retrograde jumping hour display.
Chronometer: Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135

The special feature of this watch is the vintage movement, which in the early 1950s won 5 times in a row in the accuracy competitions held at that time. The mechanism was restored back in 2022, adding a stop-second function and strengthening shock protection. The watch itself is also designed in the style of the 1950s. The 39 mm steel case complements the dial with lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl inserts. The hour scale with the original guilloche “brick” pattern refers to the facade of the Zenith manufactory.
Special Jury Prize: Alan-Dominique Perrin

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