Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980

Launched in 1976, the Nautilus watch is part of the famous line of luxury sports watches. After the discontinuation of the rose gold 5980 earlier this year, the model returns with a new case and a denim-textured strap. The 40.5 x 12.2 mm case and its signature bezel are highlighted by alternating satin and polished surfaces. The screw-down crown provides water resistance up to 30 meters.

Nautilus cases are known for their beautiful combination of finishes; for example, the upper parts of the octagonal bezel and the case ears are matte, while the sides of the bezel, the chronograph buttons and the case connections to the strap are polished.

The blue-gray dial perfectly complements the white gold case, stick-shaped hour markers and rounded hands. There are horizontal grooves on the dial. The 6 o’clock mono counter artfully combines concentric scales for the 60-minute and 12-hour counters. If you zoom in on the details, you can note the spiral finish of the mono counter and the polished date frame. Whether it’s the case, the dial, or any other component of the watch, it’s the small details on them that make the watch special.

The movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 strokes per hour, provides a power reserve of 45 to 55 hours and consists of 327 parts, including a 21-carat gold central rotor with the Patek Calatrava logo and a Spiromax® balancing spring. As usual, the mechanism includes the Patek Philippe brand; however, it is important to note that for 2024, the company has announced stricter criteria for its internal certification. According to the announcement, “All watches equipped with the Spiromax® Silinvar® balancing spring or the traditional Breguet balancing spring must meet a strict accuracy tolerance range of -1 to +2 seconds for 24 hours.” Previously, Calibers with a diameter of 20 mm or more with a Patek Philippe stamp had to have an accuracy in the range from -3 to +2 seconds for 24 hours.

The chronograph readings are grouped in an original and legible large 6-hour monometer with three concentric scales. The chronograph’s central second hand can also be used as a seconds indicator. The rounded wand-shaped hands and the stick-shaped hour markers are made of white gold and filled with a white luminescent coating to enhance readability in dark conditions.

The refined hue of the dial is repeated on the blue-gray calfskin strap with a denim pattern and a Nautilus folding clasp in white gold. The watch also comes with an optional blue-gray composite strap with a fabric pattern and contrasting white stitching.

The CH 28?520 C/522 automatic calibre operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 half-vibrations per hour) with a power reserve of 45 to 55 hours. Through the transparent sapphire glass back cover, you can appreciate the almost entirely handmade component finishes, including Geneva bridge edging, beveling and polishing edges, polishing shells, circular grain of the 21-carat gold central rotor, pearl plate and gold-plated engravings.

The flyback chronograph movement features a classic column wheel, as well as a modern vertical disc clutch that prevents the hand from bouncing in any direction when the chronograph is started.

Thanks to the virtually frictionless grip, the central chronograph hand can perform the dual function of both a chronograph and a permanent second hand. The flyback function allows the user to easily initiate the countdown of a new event while the chronograph is still running by simply pressing the button located at 4 o’clock. The retail price of the new Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980/60G is 79,600 euros.

Technical Specifications Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph